Shea Butter Cold Process Soap Bar

Today we will be exploring the beautiful world of shea butter soap making... In all honesty i kind of laid it on thick there, but we are actually going to make a shea butter soap. I probably should add some fluff at this point like how it's great for your skin, it's deeply nourishing and helps with eczema, well I just did so lets dive right in shall we 😂😂😂.

Why Shea Butter?

Shea butter is a simple ingredient for moisturizing and soothing irritated skin. In this recipe, we pair it with a few well known oils in the soaping world:

• Shea Butter: Rich in vitamins A and E, it deeply nourishes and helps repair dry, cracked skin.
• Coconut Oil: Produces a stable lather and helps the bar harden quickly, while still conditioning the skin.
• Olive Oil: Adds a silky feel and boosts the soap’s  moisture.

Together, these oils create a creamy, conditioning bar that’s perfect for face, body, or hands.

Ingredients

Handmade Shea Butter Soap (Cold Process)

• 40% Shea Butter
• 40% Coconut Oil (RBD)
• 20% Olive Oil (Extra Virgin)

For rectangular soap mould:
• 511 g Shea Butter
• 511 g Coconut Oil
• 256 g Olive Oil
• 485 g Distilled Water (approx. 38% of oils)
• 181 g Sodium Hydroxide (Lye) (to achieve ~5% superfat)

Always confirm these figures with a trusted soap calculator to match your desired superfat and water discount.

The Soap Mould I Used

I always use the same soap mould just refer to this post for more details.

Let’s Make Some Shea Butter Soap!

Before you begin, do well to measure everything out. Cold process soap-making moves quickly once lye and oils come together.

Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Safety First: Put on gloves, goggles, and long sleeves. Keep a spray bottle of vinegar nearby to neutralize any lye drips.
2. Prepare the Lye Solution: In a heat-safe container with a lid, slowly add the sodium hydroxide into the distilled water, never add water to lye. Stir gently until fully dissolved. The mixture will heat up and become quite hot allow it rest let it cool to room temperature.
3. Melt & Combine Oils: If your shea butter or coconut oil is solid, gently melt them together (e.g., in a double boiler). Once fully liquid, remove from heat and stir in the olive oil. Allow your oils all come to room temperature before mixing in the lye.
4. Combine Lye & Oils: When both the lye solution and oils are within ~5 °C of each other, slowly pour the lye solution into the oils. Use an immersion blender to mix until you reach a light trace (a thin, pudding-like consistency).
5. Pour & Tap: Immediately pour the soap batter into your mold. Tap the mould gently on the counter to release trapped air. Lightly spritz with 70% rubbing alcohol.
6. Insulate & Wait: Cover the mould with a lid. Let it sit undisturbed for 24-36 hours so saponification can finish. (I noticed that when I use olive oil in my recipes I tend to have to leave it a bit longer before I unfold to cut)
7. Unmould & Slice: Once the soap is firm to the touch, gently unmold and slice it into bars. Use a sharp knife or soap cutter.
8. Cure: Place bars on a rack or tray in a cool, dry location with good airflow. Cure for 4–6 weeks. This allows excess water to evaporate, yielding a harder, longer-lasting bar.

Congratulations you’ve made your first batch of creamy, moisturizing shea butter soap!

Prefer a visual walkthrough? Check out this tutorial:

Shelf Life & Storage

Properly cured cold process soap is self-preserving due to its high pH and low water content. If stored in a cool, dry place (away from direct sunlight), bars can last 1–2 years. Between uses, keep bars on a well-draining soap dish this prevents sogginess and extends their lifespan.

Final Notes

• Superfat Adjustments: If you prefer a richer, extra-conditioning bar, reduce your lye to achieve a 7–8 % superfat. Confirm with a soap calculator.

Enjoy your homemade shea butter soap! I’d love to hear how your batch turned out—feel free to share your color, fragrance, or texture variations. Happy soaping!